Advertisement
Advertisement
Cliff Buddle
SCMP Columnist
Home from Home
by Cliff Buddle
Home from Home
by Cliff Buddle

Historic buildings at every turn in England. Not so in Hong Kong, so let’s treasure the ones we still have

  • Britons are spoiled for choice when it comes to historic houses, churches and monuments. That sense of history is lacking in Hong Kong
  • Few historic buildings in the city have been preserved – the Tai Kwun complex is an exception. Hong Kong should not let those that remain be demolished

Hong Kong is justifiably proud of its stunning cityscape, with skyscrapers creating a futuristic panorama. But the flip side is the lack of historic buildings. Most have been bulldozed in the name of progress or, more likely, profit.

That sense of history was something I missed during my 28 years in Hong Kong. Now, back in Britain, I don’t have to go far to find it.

The church in my village received its first rector in 1243. The manor house down the road has been there since the 15th century and the pub on the village green was built in 1608. Great care is taken to ensure the traditional character of the village is preserved.

But the historical gems are to be found when visiting National Trust properties. This conservation charity owns more than 500 historic houses, castles and gardens. An annual membership costs £84 (US$106). This gives you unlimited access to all of them.

Scotney Castle in Kent, southeast England, features a ruined medieval fortress, a moat, and a 19th century country house. Photo: Shutterstock

Scotney Castle, in Kent, a favourite of mine, features a ruined medieval fortress and a moat in expansive grounds. There is an impressive country house, built in 1837, with beautiful views.

Bateman’s, in Sussex, was the home of The Jungle Book author Rudyard Kipling, who moved there in 1902. It is still much as it was during his time, with a recreated study, complete with screwed up drafts overflowing from the bin.

Then there is Sissinghurst, where poet, author and keen gardener Vita Sackville-West lived. The gardens she tended are spectacular in summer and fresh home-grown vegetables can be bought from the shop.

Leaving Hong Kong was hard – 28 years there shaped who I am

National Trust members tend to be middle-aged and middle class. It is not a trendy scene. But it should be – these national treasures are highly Instagrammable.

Regulars know the biggest attraction is not the historic house or fragrant garden. Most make a beeline for the tea shop, where cakes and scones are washed down with an excellent pot of British tea (so hard to find in Hong Kong).

The staff are a font of all knowledge about the properties. Set aside plenty of time. Once you start chatting to them, it can be difficult to get away.

The Tai Kwun heritage and arts centre in Hong Kong’s Central district is an excellent example of historic building conservation. Photo: Nora Tam
Hong Kong has made some belated headway with conservation of its physical history. The Tai Kwun heritage and arts centre, formerly Central Police Station, is an excellent example of what can be achieved.

So much, however, has been lost. The city might not be able to match England’s stately homes. But it should take care to save its remaining historic buildings from the wrecking ball.

4