Advertisement
Advertisement
Advertisement

The history of De Bethune’s singular approach to watchmaking: founder Denis Flageollet talks taking cues from Star Trek and inspiring celebrity fans like Michael Jordan and Alicia Keys

De Bethune founder and watchmaker Denis Flageollet in his atelier. Photo: Ulysse Camus

“I like Star Trek,” admits Denis Flageollet, “but it wasn’t immediately what came to mind – I feel it’s somewhat narrow-minded to assume that.”

The founder of independent watchmaker De Bethune is talking to Style in person about what may be his most recognisable creation, the space-age-vibed Dream Watch 5. “I believe watches should open people up to experience different cultures and understand that the shape may resemble a spaceship, but it is more than that in my mind,” he reasons.
The delta-shaped Dream Watch 5 is one of De Bethune’s most recognisable watches. Photo: De Bethune

Accusations of sci-fi gimmickry aside, the brand has several more calling cards such as its flexible skeleton lugs, delta bridge motif (which may also be a source of Star Trek comparisons), and the unique shade of blue on their pieces that comes from a specific heat treatment of titanium.

The Cartier Crash is making a comeback thanks to Kris Jenner, Jay-Z and others

Despite the brand’s short existence, De Bethune’s singular approach has seen it sit alongside those watchmakers who make a few dazzling pieces at a time, similar to close colleagues of Flageollet such as Francois-Paul Journe or Michel Parmigiani.

De Bethune is known for heat-treating their titanium to get a signature blue hue across their models. Photo: De Bethune

Indeed, its stellar 20-year history can be seen as a culmination of Flageollet’s watchmaking experience. As a fourth-generation horologist, he spent his youth in France near his grandfather’s workstation, reading the French comic Asterix & Obelix from which he still takes inspiration. He moved to Switzerland, joining the Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle working on clocks as a technician before co-founding the THA society with Journe in 1989.

Denis Flageollet is passionate about watchmaking. Photo: Ulysse Camus

“In 2002, it was the beginning of the millennium,” says Flageollet of the year he founded the brand, “so I thought it was perfect timing to bring ideas from traditional and even ancient watchmaking into contemporary times. The goal with the brand was to bring watchmaking culture into the present day.”

9 of the most impressive women’s watches to make an impact in 2024

De Bethune retrospective display at The 1916 Company in Central. Photo: De Bethune

Models from the early years, up until 2010, reflected more of Flageollet’s polished background in traditional watches, such as the early DB 1-5 models, all within the maison’s first year. But Flageollet and De Bethune rapidly began to develop signature motifs – the DB25, particularly the Moonphase Starry Sky, showed the aforementioned skeleton lugs and signature treated titanium blue.

De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire featuring a fully heat-treated titanium case and dial, signature skeleton lugs, delta bridge motif on the dial and individual set sapphires on the bezel. Photo: De Bethune

“The goal was to do contemporary designs from the beginning,” Flageollet explains, “it was more about taking the different steps that one must achieve in order to get there properly.” Flageollet likens De Bethune’s growth to learning music – one starts with the classics, but as one learns the notes and ideas, “you can start to create your own music, more contemporary music”.

Back in bronze: watches rewind to one of man’s earliest decorative metals

The 1916 Company showcased De Bethune pieces in Hong Kong on December 1 and 2. Photo: De Bethune

Recent years have added the delta bridge motif to these in the DB28 models, most recently in the DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire which was unveiled to Hongkongers in the hours after our conversation with Flageollet at The 1916 Company’s newly refurbished digs in Central.

De Bethune’s manufacturing facility in Switzerland. Photo: De Bethune

However, the jazz-referencing Kind of Blue is hardly treading new ground for Flageollet. “To me, this new piece already existed because we’ve made a tourbillon, we’ve made the DB28 and we’ve made this case already.”

Flageollet now runs De Bethune alongside CEO Pierre Jacques and his passion for watchmaking – particularly its culture – goes beyond the brand’s innovative designs, to knowledge sharing: Flageollet has authored or co-authored books such as Seeking Perfect – The Art of Watchmaking and Horological Alchemy. Yet there are only a few pieces that serve as milestones for him. One was the DB28 that De Bethune won the Aiguille d’Or for at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2011, and another is the DB25 World Traveller in 2016.
De Bethune DB25 World Traveller is a significant timepiece for founder Denis Flageollet. Photo: De Bethune

It may be easier to understand De Bethune’s history through its designs and milestones, but for Flageollet, it’s a constant process. When asked how long it takes to finish a watch today, he says it takes 23 years – De Bethune’s entire history.

Brad Pitt’s impressive luxury watch collection as he turns 60

“I have different projects running simultaneously,” he explains, “it’s not always clear what comes next. The pieces are new for everyone around me, but to me, what’s finished and released is the past because it’s done. I’m paying attention to new things to try, but I only use an idea if it brings something specific, there must be a sense to it.”

Denis Flageollet at The 1916 Company’s showcase of De Bethune watches in Central. Photo: De Bethune

It’s an approach and pursuit that speaks globally. Flageollet and De Bethune count some of the world’s great superstars as loyal fans – including Michael Jordan and Alicia Keys.

“I hope people feel linked to the universe,” Flageollet ruminates, “and to the culture and tradition. It’s good to feel connected to something special, so I hope that’s what people can feel in the pieces. There is the soul of everyone putting their best into a piece, their passion.”

Timepieces
  • Swiss watchmaker De Bethune only makes a few dazzling pieces at a time and has been creating signature timepieces like the Dream Watch 5 and DB28, reminiscent of Star Trek, since its founding in 2002
  • The independent maison’s founder Denis Flageollet recently paid Hong Kong a visit to unveil the jazzy DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon Sapphire at The 1916 Company – here he shares his infectious passion for watchmaking with Style