It’s a philosophy that works well now and speaks of the way jewellers (and their clients) are looking beyond diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds to create something entirely different.

French jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels describes its semi-precious stones as “ornamental”, and uses them in pieces such as a carnelian and diamond Perlée ring. Meanwhile, Francesca Amfitheatrof chose zircon, the oldest known gemstone, for the incredible Rupture necklace in Deep Time, her most recent high jewellery collection for Louis Vuitton.

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Beyond aesthetics, as jeweller Jacquie Aiche notes, semi-precious stones are often believed to be embedded with healing and protective properties. Deciding what she needs from a gemstone is often how Aiche begins designing a collection.

“I have a collection of semi-precious and precious stones that I’ve gathered throughout the years. I see what stone I’m drawn to and then I will start designing from there. My favourite gemstone at the moment is tourmaline,” Aiche says.

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Choosing the right kind of semi-precious stones, says Aiche, is an intuitive thing and depends on the type of healing needed.

“Working through the chakras, gemstones harness the elements of the Earth to connect you with the energy of the universe. Whether you’re seeking to manifest intentions, release negativity or cultivate a balance, each stone is believed to hold special properties that will guide you on your journey. If you take time to learn more about the gemstones that you naturally gravitate towards, you’ll often find that they inspire what you were looking for,” she says.

Sophie Howard, founder of jewellery brand By Pariah, whose hand-carved semi-precious and precious gemstone pieces have been worn by the likes of Michelle Obama and Emma Corrin, agrees that semi-precious stones have an element of self-care in them.

“I think there’s been a noticeable trend towards prioritising self-care in recent years, as general awareness and consciousness about personal well-being has increased. I think this shift is evident in the way people seek out grounding elements in their everyday lives, such as carrying a gemstone,” she says.

“I also think that design plays a big part: semi-precious stones can be carved into much larger shapes than traditional precious gemstones. I wear a number of our Pebble Pendants each day, which are super tactile, and I often find myself holding on to them. Something about holding these smooth little talismans is very calming and they also remind me of little shields, which I love.”

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Victoria Lampley Berens, founder of jewellery consultancy The Stax, believes there’s an element of connoisseurship and taste when it comes to investing in pieces, especially in fine and high jewellery, that use semi-precious gemstones.

She says with globalism making everything feel homogenous and easily accessible for consumers, the discerning buyer better appreciates investing in luxury brands that use rare stones and colours, and not the usual suspects like diamonds and emeralds, for something more covetable and personal.

“Stones are known to be healing, and come in every colour of the rainbow, so there’s one for everyone … I also feel astute buyers love investing in rare stones that really have a story, a provenance, an origin that feels grounded in the earth and not manufactured in a factory.”

When it comes to investing in jewellery that uses semi-precious stones, Howard says that while a person’s personal preference and aesthetics will always influence choice, it’s important to assess a gemstone’s clarity, inclusions or internal flaws, and durability.

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“Some stones, like quartz, may have inclusions that add character, while others, like amethyst, are prized for their transparency,” she says, adding that the level of clarity can affect the appearance and value of the stone.

“I always ask about treatments when looking for semi-precious stones as many gemstones undergo treatments to enhance their colour or clarity. Common treatments include heat treatment and irradiation. Be aware of any treatments the stone may have undergone, as this can impact its long-term appearance and value. All of the semi-precious stones that I use for my designs are completely natural and untreated. I think there’s nothing more beautiful than a semi-precious stone in its natural form.”

When it comes to durability, Howard says the Mohs scale, which measures the hardness of a mineral is useful. “[It’s] especially important for me when choosing gemstones for our Essential Stacking Rings as they need to be hard-wearing.”

As for her favourite semi-precious stone?

“I really love working with grey agate and green amethyst, I love that they’re so luminous but have such depth to them.”