High jewellery in 2024: the trends, products and predictions you should know – from classy pearls by Van Cleef & Arpels to maximalist Tiffany & Co. cuffs and glamorous Harry Winston cocktail rings
EmRata’s name necklace for son Sylvester is sparking a personalised jewellery trend
“I love working with pearls of all different shapes and sizes, and constantly aim to surprise and delight by using traditional gems in unexpected ways,” says the designer.
Sculpted from 18k yellow gold, Ducas’ Pea Pod charm, which delicately dangles from a diamond-drenched bail clasp, is especially heartwarming. “It’s one of my favourite designs,” she says. “Four freshwater pearls are encased in a pavé pea pod and each gem represents one of my four children.”
Elsewhere, beaded jewellery is witnessing a comeback. High jewellery collections are teeming with twisted strands of turquoise and amethyst beads that culminate in tasteful clasps adorned with slivers of chrysoprase, jadeite and rock crystal. When it comes to styling, more is more. “I love layering my beaded necklaces with delicate pendants for an eclectic look,” says Gioia Placuzzi, creative director of Sicis Jewels.
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“I recommend matching gemstone colours with outfits for a coordinated look or contrasting colours that make a bold statement. Fashion is a form of self-expression, so remember to experiment.”
As if that weren’t enough, the Taiwanese jeweller additionally affixed a fistful of sparkling sapphires and diamonds, which breathe life into the necklace’s whimsical white- and rose-gold flowering blossom.
Ruby beads similarly add texture to Cartier’s decadent Sixième Sens collection, including the Phaan ring that’s set with a whopping 8.20-carat, cushion-cut ruby of exceptional brilliance. Triangular-shaped diamonds are employed to allow the light to bounce strikingly off the crimson-coloured beads.
Alternatively, let your ears do the talking with mismatched earrings that command attention.
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“Single abstract earrings are fast becoming a trend, and their popularity is being driven by a new wave of Gen Z fine jewellery enthusiasts,” says Zulu Ghevriya, co-founder of Smiling Rocks.
“This generation’s aesthetic is dominating fashion right now. They break the norm and want to present their individual personalities, loud and clear.”
From the lightweight to hefty, chunky chain necklaces by brands including Bulgari and Pomellato are also here to stay.
“I can’t see this trend going away any time soon,” confirms Ducas. The co-founder of Courbet, Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, agrees: “Chain links have become an enduring style signature. They are feminine and versatile, and the fact that they’re easy to layer allows for maximum self-expression.”
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“By incorporating sea creatures and nautical symbols, high jewellers are depicting our increased interest in the environment,” says Placuzzi.
“In today’s fast-paced world, there’s a growing desire to reconnect with nature, and sea-inspired jewellery acts as a reminder of the importance of preserving marine ecosystems.”
So whether you’re drawn to the timeless elegance of pearls, the maximalism of extreme cuffs, or the glamour of gemstone beads, there’s a jewellery trend for everyone in the year ahead.
- Van Cleef & Arpels is combining pearls with pink and blue sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds, while pearl drop earrings from Annoushka Ducas were worn by Kate Middleton
- Sculptural cuffs come courtesy of Tiffany & Co. and Boucheron, beaded jewellery makes a comeback via Anna Hu ‘pigeon’s blood’ rubies, while Harry Winston and Chaumet offer maximalist cocktail rings