‘A breath of fresh air’: Chanel’s cruise 2024-25 show in Marseille, from white lace dresses to swimwear and sportswear – the customer-friendly collection reflected the seaside vibes of the Mediterranean city
Designed by Le Corbusier, the celebrated French modernist architect, and built between 1947 and 1952, the housing complex pioneered the idea of a vertical town to provide comfortable accommodation to its residents, with features such as a nursery school, a playground and a plenty of green space.
“For the French, Marseille is the capital of the Mediterranean,” said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel, in an interview before the show. “It’s the second biggest city [in France] and it’s so different from Paris – probably because of the sea, but also because of so many communities and cultures.
For the Marseille exhibition, Chanel worked with a series of creators hailing from countries such as Venezuela and Ivory Coast, some of them based in the French city.
A long-time supporter of dance, Chanel also collaborated with the Ballet National de Marseille – and dancer and friend of the house, Marion Barbeau – for a short video directed by Ladj Ly filmed at city landmarks such as the Vieux Port and the Cité Radieuse.
The collection reflected the seaside vibe of Marseille with fish, nets and shell motifs drawn in a childlike pattern; prim-and-proper white lace dresses; and plenty of swimwear. The looks were worn with foam and terry-cloth platform flip-flops or patent leather men’s slippers.
“I was inspired by the codes of lifestyle, of everyday life and by all the things that invite movement. The sea and the wind made me want to play with wetsuits,” said creative director Virginie Viard in the collection notes.
While Chanel’s haute couture and Métiers d’Art collections always stand out for their intricate workmanship and need to be seen up close to truly appreciate them, the cruise range is more about creating a vibe and offering customer-friendly pieces that please both the label’s loyal customers and are able to attract new and younger ones.
As Viard put it in the show notes, this collection was meant as “a breath of fresh air” – and Marseille was the perfect backdrop for this lighthearted and energetic outing.
- Models strutted around the brutalist Unesco World Heritage site Cité Radieuse, wearing customer-friendly pieces like Chanel’s signature tweed jackets paired with hoodies and shorts
- Stranger Things actress Sadie Sink, Marion Cotillard and Hong Kong star Angela Yuen were at the show; the luxury fashion maison also collaborated with the Ballet National de Marseille on a short video