What are peptides in skincare and why is Hailey Bieber a fan? These mighty molecules boost collagen production and reduce inflammation – but there’s one active ingredient they’re incompatible with ...

Apr 2 , 2024

Peptides in skincare products work at the cellular level to boost collagen production, enhance moisture retention and reduce inflammation – and Hailey Bieber is a fan. Photos: Handouts

Hailed as the latest skincare hero, peptides are tiny yet powerful molecules, composed of short chains of amino acids. Their beneficial effects include stimulating collagen production, enhancing moisture retention and reducing inflammation.

What are peptides?

As the beauty market is flooded with an overwhelming array of peptide-infused products, the quest for effective formulas that deliver on their promises involves understanding the science behind peptides, their role in skincare and the intricacies of their formulation. With amino acids the fundamental building blocks of proteins, peptides work at the cellular level, playing a part in the complex biological processes that ensure the vitality of our skin.

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These minuscule compounds deeply influence the skin’s health and structural composition. “In biological terms, peptides act as messengers, transmitting crucial signals that regulate cellular activities, forming a chain with specific functions,” says Keiko Negishi, aesthetician and skin therapist at New York-based Fild Studio.

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Peptides assume diverse roles, with carrier peptides delivering healing factors, signal peptides triggering biological responses, and neurotransmitter peptides regulating muscle contraction and relaxation. Thanks to their relatively small size, peptides can penetrate areas beyond the reach of larger proteins. “This allows them to succeed where other skincare ingredients may be lacking, by navigating the skin’s layers with more ease,” Negishi says.

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What are their benefits?

A key power of peptides is their ability to boost collagen, the structural foundation of youthful and resilient skin. As we age, collagen production naturally lags, leading to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides act as messengers signalling skin cells to synthesise collagen, thereby promoting a smoother, firmer complexion.

Hydration, a cornerstone of healthy skin, is another crucial benefit that peptides bring. Negishi explains that some peptides can enhance moisture retention, “ensuring your skin stays supple and well-nourished while fighting against dryness”. Additionally, by fortifying the skin’s natural moisture barrier, peptides contribute to a radiant and dewy complexion.

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Glow Recipe’s pomegranate peptide firming serum includes polypeptides and hyaluronic acid to hydrate, smooth and plump the skin

Beyond their role in combating the visible signs of ageing, peptides offer exceptional anti-inflammatory properties, making them invaluable in soothing irritated skin. Whether you’re dealing with the aftermath of environmental stressors, hormonal imbalances, or managing sensitivity caused by a skin condition, peptides offer a gentle yet effective means of promoting balance.

How to use them properly

Not all peptides are created equal, with the size of specific molecules impacting their ability to penetrate the skin. “When incorporating peptides into your skincare routine, the recommended frequency of use varies depending on personal preference, manufacturer directions and skin type,” Negishi says. For many, a twice-daily application is optimal, particularly when using peptides in the form of a cream or serum that is left on. Peptides are also compatible with various skincare products, working harmoniously with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C.

This property of peptides means you can usually maintain your existing routine while adding them in. When it comes to a potent active ingredient like retinol, for instance, a peptide moisturiser can help fortify the skin’s barrier. Caution is recommended in the case of alpha hydroxy acids, however, as these may diminish the effectiveness of topical peptides.

Skincare

Short chains of amino acids – the building blocks of proteins – peptides work at the cellular level to regulate biological processes that ensure the skin’s vitality … and Hailey Bieber is such a fan her brand Rhode offers a Peptide Glazing Fluid
Peptides are compatible with various skincare products, working harmoniously with active ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C and retinol – but AHAs can compromise their efficacy