11 of the best neon signs still hanging in Hong Kong, and how to get to them before the glow is gone for good
- Hong Kong used to be synonymous with neon signs, but the majority have been removed in recent decades, the victims of regulation and the rise of LEDs
- There remain around 150 on buildings around the city that bathe their neighbourhoods in vivid hues. We’ve picked 11 of the best, and tell you how to reach them
During their heyday in Hong Kong in the second half of the 20th century, thousands of neon signs bathed the city in vividly coloured light every evening. In recent decades, however, they have been gradually disappearing.
One reason for this is government regulation. Many of the signs were erected without permission from authorities and were deemed public safety hazards. In the early 2010s, new rules were introduced and many displays were slated for removal.
Despite this, some sources estimate there still to be around 150 neon signs on buildings across the city. Here are 11 of the most impressive of them to see before the glow is gone for good.
Kowloon
Wo Hing Victory Mahjong, 385 Nathan Road, Yau Ma Tei.
Many neon displays have been removed from this part of the city in recent times, including the famous Koon Nam Wah Bridal sign, removed last summer, and the decades-old signs at Raja Fashions tailors and Tai Ping Koon restaurant, both removed since the start of 2023.
Tai Cheong Optical Centre, Man Hing House, Tai Hang Sai Estate, Shek Kip Mei.
Tai Hang Sai housing estate in Shek Kip Mei is home to the Tai Cheong Optical Centre and its unique neon sign featuring spectacle shapes. The glowing green rims encircle red Chinese characters that spell out the company’s name.
Tai Cheong Optical Centre can be reached by turning left from Exit B2 of the Shek Kip Mei MTR station.
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Chiu Chow Lok Hau Fook Restaurant, 1-3 Hau Wong Road, Kowloon City.
Chiu Chow Lok Hau Fook Restaurant has occupied this location since 1954 and is easy to find with its blue, red and gold-coloured, L-shaped signboard that protrudes out over the street. The building dates back to before World War II and the columns that frame its entrance feature Chinese characters – a feature once common on Hong Kong storefronts.
Gam Lai Gung Karaoke Night Club, 7 Changsha Street, Mong Kok.
In decades past, Mong Kok was arguably the most famous Hong Kong neighbourhood for neon signs, but unfortunately relatively few remain today. There is one street corner in the neighbourhood, however, where the glow is kept alive.
The exterior of the Gam Lai Gung Karaoke Night Club, on the corner of Changsha and Portland streets, is adorned with four neon signs, including one that juts out over the road.
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The concentration of neon in this spot makes it reminiscent of a Hong Kong street corner of decades past.
Changsha Street is a five-minute walk from exit B1 of Mong Kok MTR station.
New Territories
Plentiful Delight Banquet, Ho Shun Tai Building, 10 Sai Ching Street, Yuen Long.
It is only five minutes’ walk from another of the area’s large neon signs, at Wing Wah.
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Wing Wah (Yuen Long), 96 Castle Peak Road, Yuen Long
This Yuen Long institution has been serving mooncakes and other Chinese pastries since 1950. The company has since expanded to operate various branches across Hong Kong, but the original branch remains special.
The business occupies a three-storey building with multiple neon signs including a large, rectangular signboard.
Wing Wah (Tsuen Wan), 43B Tsuen Wan Market Street, Tsuen Wan.
It is unusually shaped and, although not as big as the sign outside Wing Wah’s original Yuen Long branch, is attractive nonetheless. What’s more, it stands a short walk from a number of other neon signs that promote hotels, pawn shops and a foot massage parlour.
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Wealth Banquet, 455 Kam Tin Road, Kam Tin.
One of Hong Kong’s largest neon signs is nestled among village houses, in a residential neighbourhood where there’s not a high-rise in sight.
The green, blue and red display features a roast goose, one of the restaurant’s popular dishes. There is also another, smaller neon sign by the side of the road.
The nearest MTR station, Kam Sheung Road, is around 20 minutes’ walk away.
Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant, 87-93 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung.
Hong Kong Island
Lee Kung Man Knitting Factory, Fuk Kar Building, Johnston Road, Wan Chai.
The best view of the sign is from the top deck of one of Hong Kong’s trams, which pass under the sign as they glide along Johnston Road. Other neon signs in the area include those at Ying Kee Tea House, also on Johnston Road, and the Park Excellent Hotel, on Hennessy Road.
Sunbeam Theatre, 423 King’s Road, North Point.
The theatre has a large red neon sign with four Chinese characters spelling out its name. The Sunbeam continues to host regular performances and film screenings, typically starting at 7.30pm, which is usually a great time to see the venue’s sign lit up.
