Discover Hong Kong parks on foot – where to go in Kowloon: five pockets of greenery amid the urban jungle
- It comprises some of the most densely populated real estate on Earth, but beneath and between the towers of Kowloon are several extensive patches of greenery
- If you are itching for some outdoor exercise and relaxation, we tell you how to make the most of five public parks in Kowloon from Tsim Sha Tsui to Diamond Hill
Many people in Hong Kong have spent more time indoors in recent months than is good for mental or physical health – especially those in confined living spaces. With some Covid-19 social distancing measures finally set to lift next month, many of us will be looking forward to a more balanced way of life, including outdoors exercise and relaxation.
One new study from China, appearing as a preprint on medRxiv, looked at coronavirus transmission and found that, among 7,324 identified cases, only one occurred outdoors – in a conversation between two villagers.
Add the fact that most people in Hong Kong wear masks nowadays, and you can usually keep at least a cough’s distance from others, even in a city park.
Look at a map of Kowloon, the urban area to the north of Victoria Harbour, it appears peppered with green space. However, check more closely and it turns out that little of this is suitable for strolling around, with several parks dominated by soccer pitches and other sports facilities. There are, though, some parks – and even a nunnery with a landscaped garden – that are well worth visiting.
1. Kowloon Park
The British military relinquished the barracks in 1967, and in 1970 the site was redeveloped to become Kowloon Park, though this was only completed in the late 1980s.
Now it is an attractive park, abounding with footpaths and sections such as Conservation Corner and Kung Fu Court, and offers welcome respite from the streets of Tsim Sha Tsui. Start your visit at a southern entrance, along Haiphong Road, and take a path on the left, to an artificial pool shaded by trees, with a fountain pumping a column of water to almost treetop height.
Conservation Corner is nearby, by the eastern edge of the park, which borders Nathan Road.
While the idea of nurturing a relatively natural environment here was a good one, and in the 1990s this corner and nearby attracted a variety of migratory songbirds, it seems park managers have lately ripped away some of the vegetation, perhaps to reduce numbers of mosquitoes.
Add pesticide spraying, and there is “conservation” in name only nowadays, so you will struggle to find even the most common local birds here.
Still, a shelter among the trees can be a quiet place to visit, and sit awhile.
Steps up from Conservation Corner lead to Kung Fu Court, which is a concrete area dotted with quirky statues, and a popular place for morning tai chi. Continuing northwards there is a tiny maze, and beyond this the Chinese Garden, which has outdoor corridors and an ornamental pond with pavilion in traditional Chinese style.
To the west is an artificial pool – the Bird Lake. While small for a lake, this is a pleasant spot to visit and enjoy seeing a captive flock of bright pink flamingoes against a backdrop of trees and bamboo. Wild black-crowned night herons have also found the Bird Lake offers a haven in the city, and established a colony with a few dozen nests in trees above the footpath.
Uphill a little from here, a path leads past an aviary, to a playground incorporating remnants of the military battery. Tucked away in the northwest corner of the park a fitness trail winds down a wooded slope, and makes for a pleasant stroll. To exit the park, you might pass a nearby outdoor swimming pool, and emerge onto Austin Road.
2. Chi Lin Nunnery
In Diamond Hill on the northern fringe of Kowloon, Chi Lin Nunnery can be a good place to head if you are in need of a little tranquillity. Though the nunnery was established in 1936, the present buildings date from 1990, and were built entirely from cypress wood, with no nails used. Even 30 years later, they still appear brand new.
There is a grand temple complex, with halls housing Buddhist statues, a courtyard featuring ornamental trees and rectangular pools where water flows in through carved dragons’ heads. While the architecture is impressive, the dark brown buildings lack the colour and vibrancy of many a temple. But there are brighter structures nearby.
Across a footbridge, there is the related Nan Lian Garden, with features including a red bridge to a golden pagoda on an island in an artificial lake. You can walk the paths here, passing trees resembling cypress, and artificial landscaping that slightly recalls the kinds of mountain areas you see in Chinese paintings.
It's an odd garden for subtropical Hong Kong, superficially pretty and utterly phoney. So there's no need to stay too long.
3. Kowloon Walled City Park
In 1987, the British and Chinese governments announced plans to demolish the buildings. The demolition began in 1993, and was completed in April 1994. The next month, work began on transforming the site into Kowloon Walled City Park.
Today, this is a green and pleasant place, with a surrounding wall and entry gates, outdoor corridors, ponds and shrubberies, built and arrayed in traditional Chinese style – a little similar to Kowloon Park's Chinese Garden, but grander and more attractive.
In the centre, there's a building like an old south China temple. This is the Yamen – the only surviving original building, which was the headquarters of the Walled City when it was built as a fortress at the end of the Qing dynasty, around 1847.
It is now the park office, and hosts a modest exhibition on the Walled City’s history.
Another park building is called the Mountain View Pavilion, but trees hide most of the surroundings, and the Kowloon Hills to the north. For a hilltop with a view, you have to head to another, nearby park.
4/5. Kowloon Tsai Park and Lok Fu Park
From near the western edge of Kowloon Walled City Park, a short walk along Dumbarton Road leads to Kowloon Tsai Park. Here, you can follow a footpath north past a lawn and Bauhinia Garden, and skirt round past two schools, to arrive in Lok Fu Park.
This is also a splendid vantage for admiring Kowloon and surroundings, from Lion Rock south to the harbour, and Kai Tak.