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Books & Co in Hong Kong’s Mid-Levels area. Although many of Hong Kong’s independent bookshops have closed in recent years, those that remain are havens filled with rare, weird and wonderful volumes. Photo: Facebook/Books & Co.

5 of the best independent bookstores in Hong Kong, for bookworms who prefer the real thing to reading a Kindle

  • Many independent bookstores have closed in Hong Kong in recent years, falling victim to competition from big chains and the rise of the Kindle and e-books
  • But some bookworm havens prevail in the city, carrying volumes on subjects from film to feminism. Here are our top 5 picks to satisfy your inner bibliophile

In a city as fast-changing as Hong Kong, it can be difficult to keep the lights on as a small-business owner and offer something novel to customers that hasn’t already been monopolised by big, resource-rich corporations.

Independent bookstore operators in the city have known this struggle all too well in recent years, with many opening and then closing down for a variety of reasons.

While buying books online or from ubiquitous chains offers convenience, nothing beats the intimacy of a good indie bookshop. Visiting these places can be an intensely personal experience – getting to know every nook and cranny and becoming acquainted with the owner while leafing through the pages of rare, weird and wonderful volumes.

For all the faithful bibliophiles who reject Kindles in favour of reading the analogue way, here are five of Hong Kong’s best remaining independent bookstores.

Art and Culture Outreach (ACO) Books. Photo: Facebook/@Art and Culture Outreach (ACO) Books

1. Art and Culture Outreach (ACO) Books

This shop, located in the Foo Tak Building artist community in Wan Chai, has a Chinese name that means “birds of art” – something that hints at its mission to do more than just sell books.

ACO is a non-profit organisation that promotes the local art and culture scene. While it commonly hosts events like exhibitions, performances and talks by creatives, it is first and foremost an independent retailer specialising in publications in both Chinese and English on art and contemporary culture.

Inside, you’ll find rare gems seldom seen elsewhere, like Feminism for the 99%: A Manifesto, by Cinzia Arruzza, Nancy Fraser and Tithi Bhattacharya.

If you do decide to visit, don’t forget to check out the zines published by local artists that are on offer, and the rooftop garden where ACO advocates a greener lifestyle through urban farming.

14/F Foo Tak Building, 365-367 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai

2. Books & Co.

Just a three-minute walk from Sai Ying Pun MTR station, this charming bookshop and coffee shop has a facade of red brick walls and green window frames, making it seem almost frozen in time on the quiet Mid-Levels slope on which it is located.

Inside, this sense of nostalgia continues, with stacks of new and preloved books in a down-to-earth atmosphere.

For bookworms looking to spend the afternoon in cosy surroundings, there is a small cafe area within the shop that sells casual bites and beverages – a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.

G/F, 10 Park Road, Mid-Levels

3. Mount Zero

This quirky spot on Tai Ping Shan Street in Sheung Wan is another hidden gem for the nostalgic book lover.

Mount Zero moved in in 2018, after the previous tenant – a florist – left the unit vacant, and changed the space into what it is today: a tiny two-storey bookstore reminiscent of a very old Hong Kong.

Specialising in art, culture and literary publications from Hong Kong and Taiwan, Mount Zero also stocks a small amount of English-language titles.

Mount Zero Books. Photo: Instagram/@mountzerobooks

New copies are mostly on the ground floor, while a narrow staircase takes book lovers to the attic – a small reading room with just a few chairs, a desk and a guestbook – where visitors can write down whatever’s on their mind in front of the big window facing the quiet street.

Shop C, 6 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan

4. Kubrick

An extension of Broadway Cinematheque – one of the few cinemas in Hong Kong that screens independent and art films – Kubrick is the only Kowloon establishment to feature on this list.

Half of the store is a cafe, serving fair-trade, organic, Ethiopian coffee alongside locally sourced, delicious bites. But the main draw is, of course, the bookshop on the other side.

Kubrick bookstore in Hong Kong’s Yau Ma Tei neighbourhood. Photo: Instagram/@kubrick.hk.2001

As it is owned by a local film distribution company, most of Kubrick’s reads are about film, design, culture and photography, and indie magazines also adorn the shelves.

Another section of the bookstore stocks discs and movie memorabilia – a real treat for cinephiles and music lovers – including art film DVDs, soundtracks, movie posters and indie vinyl records.

A stand-out among the books here is the World Film Locations book series (which features Toronto, Dublin, Rome, Istanbul, Shanghai and more), while the most intellectually fascinating is the Conversations with Filmmakers Series, which features big industry names like David Fincher, Todd Haynes and Spike Lee.

Shop H2, Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square Street, Yau Ma Tei

5. Parenthèses

Hong Kong is home to the largest number of French expats in Asia, so it only makes sense there is a bookshop to serve that community. Enter Parenthèses.

Parenthèses Librairie Francaise. Photo: Facebook/Parenthèses Librairie Francaise

A stone’s throw from Central’s Lan Kwai Fong and Soho neighbourhoods, the dedicated French-language bookshop has been promoting French culture since 1987, with merchandise ranging from books, comics, textbooks, dictionaries and magazines.

One of the most revered establishments in Hong Kong for French culture, Parenthèses also regularly hosts cultural and literary events.

2/F Duke Wellington House, 14-24 Wellington Street, Central

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