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Watches and Wonders 2024: Kylian Mbappé and Gisele Bündchen bring the star power to Geneva, while top brands IWC, Piaget and Jaeger-LeCoultre unveil the year’s hottest luxury timepieces

Watches and Wonders in Geneva brought together the leading names in watchmaking from April 9-15, as well as A-list watch ambassadors like Hublot’s Kylian Mbappé and IWC’s Gisele Bündchen. Photo: WWGF/Keystone

For retailers, brands, makers, enthusiasts, collectors and fans, all eyes were on Geneva this past week, where the 2024 edition of Watches and Wonders took place at Palexpo. An impressive 54 maisons presented the latest horological wonders at the world’s biggest watch fair, which wrapped its weeklong run yesterday.

“Our mission is to promote watchmaking worldwide, to showcase the industry with one voice – 54 brands speaking together,” said Matthieu Humair, CEO of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation. “We want to go further and stronger.”

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Visitors walk the Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, Switzerland on April 9. Photo: Reuters

The fair comes at a pivotal moment for Switzerland, as midway through its run the country’s lawmakers voted to preserve neutrality amid bubbling tensions between the West and Russia over Ukraine. Meanwhile Swiss banks will henceforth face tighter regulation in the wake of UBS’s takeover of Credit Suisse, after the latter’s collapse last year.

It isn’t all sunshine and roses for the watch industry either. Reports indicated that through the latter half of 2023, demand for pre-owned pieces from brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe cooled. Auction sales dropped 13 per cent in 2023, per Bloomberg. And while watch exports for the country grew by 7.6 per cent on 2022, growth slowed to 3.6 per cent in the second half of the year – from 11.8 per cent in the first – according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. It felt to many that the watch industry’s post-pandemic boom is over.
Brazilian model Gisele Bundchen at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Switzerland on April 9. Photo: WWGF/Keystone
Despite all this, spirits were certainly high in Geneva, with fairgoers from around the world gathering to see some of the biggest releases of the year. Helping fuel the fuss were a galaxy of stars: model Gisele Bündchen appeared with IWC, Hublot welcomed football star Kylian Mbappé, South Korean heartthrob Lee Jun-ho visited with Piaget and Chinese actor/model Jackson Yee greeted fans at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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Hublot ambassador footballer Kylian Mbappé launches the official Euro 2024 watch, a Bang Bang model, at Watches and Wonders Geneva. Photo: WWGF/Keystone

“When we see the traffic, we don’t feel a slowdown at Watches and Wonders,” Humair observed, noting a 20 per cent increase in first-day visitors compared to last year. “Each brand has its own strategy but it’s exciting in terms of creativity. It’s very dynamic – especially when there is a difficult period, events like Watches and Wonders Geneva are really necessary.”

Chinese actor Jackson Yee at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, Switzerland, on April 11. Photo: Handout

What did the big brands drop at Watches and Wonders 2024?

It is, of course, brands showcasing creativity that is the main draw for the fair. Intricacies abounded as houses like Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen and Vacheron Constantin made complications a key theme for their releases this year. Still other maisons, like Cartier, Chanel and Van Cleef & Arpels, released stunning jewellery pieces as well as métiers d’arts masterpieces.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire. Photo: Handout

It seems with every passing year, expectations are pushed ever-higher for the craftsmanship that brands can showcase. “Our clients and watch enthusiasts are deeply fascinated by the world of fine watchmaking and the rich history of horology,” said a representative from Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand revisited the double gear-train Duometre with a moonphase, chronograph and the show-stopping Heliotourbillon Perpetual. “We take great joy in sharing our extensive expertise with our valued patrons.”

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Perpetual 1908 in platinum with ice-blue guilloché dial. Photo: Handout

Rolex updated their Sky-Dweller collection with precious metals, and added new dial varieties to the celebrated Day-Date 36 and 40. It also issued the Deepsea, a gold dive watch rated to no less than 3,900 metres, and added a platinum piece with ice-blue guilloche dial to the 1908 collection, that was launched in 2023.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Photo: Handout

In this vein, we saw Tudor listen to its fans in releasing the Black Bay 58 GMT with a cola-coloured gilt bezel variant. A. Lange & Söhne revisited its Datograph line with a new perpetual calendar. Panerai dived back into the Submersible line alongside sailing team Luna Rossa to give the Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition in carbon fibre, limited to just 20 pieces. Grand Seiko cast fresh light on the previously night-inspired dial of its 2022 hit the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon.

Panerai Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa. Photo: Handout

Patek Philippe’s most notable release may just be its reference 5330G, a world timer launched as a limited edition at the brand’s “Watch Art” exhibition in Tokyo last year. For easy time-setting across cities, the pushers synchronise the date with the hours across time zones, especially useful if the wearer has crossed the International Date Line. For those craving something more intricate, the brand has revived the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts reference 5160/500R-001, also featuring a moonphase and elaborate engraving on the dial and rose gold case.

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Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts reference 5160/500R-001. Photo: Handout
Parmigiani Fleurier and Zenith also dug deep through their storied archives this year. Founded in 1996, the former revived the Toric collection from the brand’s early days, famously seen as a chronograph on King Charles III’s wrist but now in platinum and rose gold, time-only and chronograph rattrapante varieties. Zenith – generally known for chronographs and pilot watches from their El Primero and Pilot lines, revisited their divers’ model from 1969 with the Defy Revival and Defy Extreme Diver.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric. Photo: Handout

Every year, there is an overwhelming amount of creativity and innovation to take in at Watches and Wonders, and thankfully fairgoers continue to show they are here for it, which bodes well for the industry this year. “The energy is here,” Humair concluded, “and we can be confident for the watchmaking industry in the year to come.”

Timepieces
  • Watches and Wonders 2024 went big on celebrities for 2024, with Bündchen repping IWC and Mbappé for Hublot, while K-pop idol Lee Jun-ho visited with Piaget, and Chinese star Jackson Yee was in town for Jaeger-LeCoultre.
  • More than 49,000 visitors turned out to see the latest creations from 54 top brands – here’s Style’s report direct from the world’s biggest timepiece spectacle