The biggest revelations from LVMH Watch Week 2024: leadership changes, a spotlight on Bulgari Bulgari (a George Michael fave), Gérald Genta’s Mickey watch, and more from Tag Heuer, Hublot and Zenith

Feb 6 , 2024

From Bulgari Bulgari to Zenith timepieces, here’s what you need to know about LVMH Watch Week. Photo: Handout

At the annual LVMH Watch Week in Miami, the luxury conglomerate announced key leadership shuffles and presented novelties from its six watch brands: Tag Heuer, Hublot, Zenith, Bulgari and the two newly revived legacy brands Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth, under Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture.

LVMH Watch Week took place in Miami from January 28 to February 1. Photo: @LVMH/X

The event took place from January 28 to February 1, and was the first time the group’s new appointments within its watch division made major public appearances.

Last month, it was announced that Frédéric Arnault, former chief executive of Tag Heuer and son of LVMH chief executive and chairman Bernard Arnault, would take on the role of CEO of LVMH Watches, overseeing Tag Heuer, Hublot and Zenith. This prompted a round of leadership musical chairs with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare moving to Tag Heuer and Benoit de Clerck jumping from Richemont’s Panerai to Zenith.

Frédéric Arnault is taking on role as CEO of LVMH Watches. Photo: Tag Heuer

The restructure is considered a signal of LVMH’s intent to solidify its position in watchmaking. The resilient watches and jewellery categories are becoming increasingly important as the luxury industry slows its growth after several years of post-pandemic growth. With slowdowns in the secondary watch market, political tensions, global events and increased competition for discretionary spending, many of the top executives at LVMH Watch Week expect a more consolidated year of growth.

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Still, many expressed confidence that their brands will weather the challenges ahead.

Despite potential headwinds ahead, there was much creativity and connoisseurship at LVMH Watch Week this year, from reviving legacy to reimagining what telling the time can mean.

Here is our round-up of the highlights of LVMH Watch Week, and what it spells for the world of luxury timepieces.

Green still dominates

The colour green dominated at the Watch Week, as seen in this Carrera piece. Photos: Handout

Green remains the ultimate “It” colour. It was found everywhere from Tag Heuer’s new teal dial “Dato” edition of the Carrera “glassbox” chronograph it released for its 60th anniversary in 2023, to Bulgari’s striking new dial for its Lucea range made from upcycled pieces of malachite.

Bulgari’s new Lucea piece made from upcycled pieces of malachite

Green was also at Zenith for the brand’s Chronograph Triple Calendar, a refined take of an original prototype from 1969, and in a new Big Bang Unico at Hublot using its proprietary material, Saxem.

Zenith’s Chronograph Triple Calendar is a tribute to a El Primero in 1969

Haute horology – but make it fun

Hublot new MP Tourbillon has no dials or hands

Hublot continues to come up with new ideas in watchmaking. Its new MP (manufacture piece) Tourbillon is more machina than timepiece – after all it has neither dial nor hands.

Then there’s the return of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth under master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, who have worked together for decades on some of the world’s most complicated watches. The pair also worked with Genta himself, one of the most influential and revered watch designers in the world who designed icons such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and more.

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Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas presented a Mickey watch with special Genta-coded features

At LVMH Watch Week, the pair talked through the Mickey piece they first debuted at the biennial charity auction Only Watch, and which nods to several of Genta’s codes – with an added GG-001 calibre, a minute repeater, jumping hours and minute retrograde movement. That such haute watchmaking can also be so whimsical is part of Genta’s lasting legacy.

Meanwhile, the Daniel Roth Souscription Tourbillon’s elegance – and its overloaded subscription list – is testament to how watch appreciation has deepened.

Nod to the Eighties

The Bulgari Bulgari watch counts George Michael as a fan

Bulgari is turning its attention to its Bulgari Bulgari watch, first launched in the 70s as a gift for favoured clients. It gained more popularity in the 80s, and even George Michael was a fan.

A masterpiece in branding as well as chicness, it takes inspiration from Roman coins, with the emperor etched onto the edges. It comes in a 38mm size and has true genderless allure. The Daniel Roth Souscription piece also remasters an original reference from 1988. Both are proof that the 60s and 70s weren’t the only great eras for watch design.

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Size does matter

The Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph watch. Photo: @tagheuer/Instagram

The trend cycle swing toward smaller watch sizes continues with Tag Heuer releasing 34mm versions of its sporty Aquaracer Solargraph in a slew of colours. Fun fact: just two minutes of sunlight will keep the battery running all day, and 40 hours of light means it will last for 10 months in darkness. Bulgari also has a cute little 26mm version of its Bulgari Bulgari watch.

Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang jewellery watch goes double rainbow

Meanwhile, Hublot, better known for its burly watches, is also going smaller with its 32mm fully pavé dial Spirit of Big Bang jewellery watches. The ombre rainbow strap on the rainbow gem-set one is particularly fun.

Louis Vuitton

Frédéric Arnault, former chief executive of Tag Heuer and son of Bernard Arnault, has taken on the role of CEO of LVMH Watches, overseeing Tag Heuer, Hublot and – prompting an industry shuffle
Master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas return, and they’ve worked with the legend Genta himself, who designed icons like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak