The Gefica Kilimanjaro watch was one of the earliest examples of a luxury bronze timepiece. Introduced in 1988 by Gérald Genta – the man behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1970) and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976) – the watch was clad entirely in bronze, chosen for its matt appearance and vintage-inspired aesthetic. Over time, however, watchmakers have experimented with other materials – stainless steel, ceramic, gold and even nano-tube carbon – causing bronze watches to dip in popularity.

Fast forward to today, however, and bronze timepieces are experiencing quite the renaissance as the world’s leading brands rediscover their appeal. And, as one of the hottest trends in watchmaking right now, there’s no shortage of options to choose from.

At Florentine watchmaker Panerai, bronze has long been used in the creation of one of its most emblematic models: the Bronzo. First released in 2011 in a limited run of 1,000, the model was an instant sensation with Panerai’s devoted fans – the Paneristi – who clamoured for the design’s chunky 47mm case, carved out of bronze with a unique weathered effect. Building on that success, two years later Panerai released another Bronzo, this time with a power-reserve indicator; and a further model followed in 2017, with a blue dial.

Now the brand’s latest Bronzo – the skeletonised Radiomir Tourbillon Bronzo – launched earlier this year in celebration of the brand’s new flagship boutique in New York and is arguably its most mechanically complex yet. Reworking one of Panerai’s most celebrated signatures, the classic 45mm Radiomir has been sculpted in bronze, set to a brushed finish and presented on a leather strap with creamy stitching and matching bronze trapezoidal pin buckle.

For an avant-garde take on the trend, look to French watchmaker Bell & Ross, which earlier this year unveiled the latest iteration of its iconic Cyber Skull, this time adorned with bronze. Introduced in 2009 with the launch of the BR 01 Skull, the Skull collection has become emblematic of the brand. The BR 01 Skull Bronze, released in 2015, was the first in the family to adopt a bronze case. This was followed a year later with the BR 01 Skull Bronze Tourbillon for the Only Watch charity sale. In 2017, the brand debuted a further bronze model, introducing a unique 3D element with the BR 01 Burning Skull Bronze.

Now, this latest model, limited to just 500 pieces, reinterprets the squared case and bevelled corners of the Cyber Skull in lustrous bronze. Driven by the BR-CAL.210 calibre, the bronze skull that punctuates the centre of the timepiece comes alive with the turning of the crown, its jaws opening and closing in a feat of technical brilliance.

Tempted to try the trend yourself? Few precious metals can rival the singularity of bronze, as it gains a unique tarnished patina over time, enjoying a life of its own on the wrist just as unique as that of its owner.