The gem ranks 2.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, according to the Gemological Institute of America, meaning it’s much easier to scratch and damage than diamonds or softer gems like emeralds, which score 10 and 7.5 on the scale, respectively.

Implanting a tiny bead made from oyster shells into oysters, the father of modern pearls, Kokichi Mikimoto created the first cultured Akoya pearls in the late 1800s. This led to a steady supply of high-quality pearls and popularised the gem.

Akoya pearls and other saltwater pearls, like Tahitian black pearls and South Sea pearls, were associated with celebrities and royalty, adorning the necklines of Hollywood stars like Elizabeth Taylor or paired with skirt suits in the case of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Brands like Bulgari and Cartier were among the top luxury jewellers who paired cultured pearls with organically shaped baroque and natural pearls.

It wasn’t until the mid-1950s – when the Chinese began freshwater cultured pearl farming, resulting in more organically shaped pearls – that the gem became more accessible. Today, an overwhelming 95 per cent of pearls are freshwater: cultured en-masse in large mussels that can produce up to 30 pearls at a time.

Classic strand designs paired with a precious stone centre – like the pearl, diamond and sapphire bracelet from Chopard’s most recent Red Carpet collection – continue to captivate jewel lovers today.

But designs have come a long way since your grandmother’s string of pearls. “Current pearl jewellery designs exude the same elegance, but designers are more experimental and no longer conform to the tradition that pearls should always be strung,” says Louisa Chan, head of sale, Hong Kong, at Phillips Jewels.

She observes that the chunky trend is making its way to pearl designs as the delicate look of the gem naturally lends itself to standing out against architectural silhouettes.

“Ethereal pearls are juxtaposed with heavy metal chains; they are used to highlight a thick ear cuff, and thin strands of pearl bracelets are stacked with gold bangles,” Chan goes on.

The Monsieur Fred Inner Light collection plays with this contrast between texture and colour. The sculptural cuff and bangle designs and a two-finger ring are set with a delicate dance of white South Sea pearls and pinkish Akoya pearls, arranged to evoke soft, bubbly ocean foam. Nestled between the luminous spheres are light sprinkles of diamonds.

Jewellery designer Anna Hu is quick to note, though, that the feminine beauty of the pearl continues to lend itself to more classic, timeless designs. “Pearls have always been quite versatile and can bring a touch of elegance and sophistication to any outfit. With current trends, I’ve been seeing a lot of traditional pearls and simplistic designs – both never go out of style.”

Their ability to harmoniously blend into both classic and contemporary designs means pearls are no longer reserved for complementing necklines of dresses and feminine preppy cardigans. “Since more men are sporting jewels on the red carpet, pearl jewels such as chokers and long necklaces are also coming back, but for men,” Chan says.

Mikimoto’s pioneering spirit continues today, with his namesake brand continuously pushing the boundaries with its edgy designs in collaboration with Japanese fashion house Comme des Garçons.

The unique juxtaposition these delicate baubles creates against materials like gold, titanium and diamonds makes them popular in high jewellery designs. Chaumet drapes strands of lustrous coloured pearls in various sizes on a diamond necklace accented with a sea star fashioned out of sapphires and padparadscha sapphires to create its ocean-themed Comètes des Mers necklace.

Chopard captures the fluid movement of pearl strands in a pair of floral chandelier earrings paired with beryls, opals, peridots, sapphires and tourmalines from the 2023 Red Carpet collection.

The temperamental gems are damaged easily by cosmetics, oils and acids – meaning their softness and delicate composition can pose challenges for designers.

“Pearls are more delicate. Therefore, it is essential to be extra careful while arranging stones with my design renderings,” Hu says. “My priority is to showcase the pearls in their most original and natural look possible.”

The designer works with both natural and cultured pearls, and in one of her recent creations, took inspiration from the calabash gourd, or hulu, a symbol of prosperity in Chinese culture, to create the Auspicious Uluh earrings. “I was inspired to integrate the harmonious hulu-shaped natural pearls into my artistic design.”

Though contemporary takes on pearl settings have transformed how and who wears pearls, Phillips’ Chan says quality and origin trump all else when it comes to making a piece collectable. Strands of natural saltwater pearls of significant size, matching colour and lustre, and with very minimal surface blemishes, still raise eyebrows – and paddles – at auction.

“It is the epitome of pearl jewellery,” she states. “One cannot even begin to fathom how many mollusks had to be retrieved and opened before enough pearls were found and matched to make even one strand of pearls.”