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Maximum impact: how bold and colourful high jewellery is brightening up the season, with brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Tiffany & Co. leading the trend

Boucheron’s More is More collection. Photos: Handout
Quiet luxury has become the defining fashion trend of 2023, and while the concept is offering a tranquil touch to how people approach their personal style, this doesn’t mean there isn’t a time and place for the bold and colourful. Just as sunshine-yellow summer dresses and bright-pink jumpsuits can exist alongside a wardrobe of beige and cream cashmere separates, for those days when you want something more dramatic, the same can be said for statement-making jewellery on days when you want to give your day-to-day favourites a rest.

As the name suggests, Boucheron’s More is More collection is definitely jewellery that’s out to make a statement. With pop art as its inspiration, the collection’s pieces are striking and even audacious at times, featuring geometric shapes and bold colours in designs that challenge the concept of what high jewellery can be. Exhibit A: the An Apple a Day bracelet resembles a ball, in a size big enough to be a cuff, and features tsavorite garnets in vibrant green.

Boucheron More Is More collection, In The Pocket & An Apple A Day

One bow-shaped hairpiece, aptly named Tie the Knot, is a distinctive black, red and white creation some 29cm in length, with diamonds set alongside unconventional materials for high jewellery such as magnesium and bio-acetate – a material often used in eyewear. Solve Me is a playful piece that appears to have drawn inspiration from the Rubik’s Cube puzzle, its 20 cube-shaped pieces forming a necklace, and its sides featuring smooth grey or pink spinels, or set with pink sapphires and diamonds.

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For the ideal combination of eye-catching and regal, there is the Alata ear cuff and matching stud from the Piaget Metaphoria collection. The ear cuff features two pear-shaped diamonds and overlapping petal-like pieces featuring either diamond pavé, gold or white mother-of-pearl, or Piaget’s special Décor Palace engraving that makes gold look like shimmering silk. Worn above the ear, with the gold and silver petals set against a backdrop of the wearer’s hairdo and an ear stud to add symmetry to the look, this Grecian-like set is an elegant way to make a statement and turn some heads.

Louis Vuitton Deep Time collection, Drift rings

There is also the Mineralis ear cuff, where the precious stones are set at the base of the cuff, featuring sapphires and diamonds set in 18k white gold.

Sea Anemone are the latest theme added to the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue high jewellery collection, revealed in early October.
Tiffany & Co Blue Book 2023: Out Of The Blue, Pisces

The mesmerising body of this marine animal was depicted in a pieces just as intriguing, featuring an inverted setting where the diamonds are positioned with their culets facing out for a spiky effect. This includes a pair of earrings in 18k white gold and set with diamonds and blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines the colour of a clear blue sea – a dynamic set that demands a second look.

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Tiffany has also introduced new creations for the existing themes in the Blue Book 2023: Out of the Blue collection, with one stand-out being a necklace under the Pisces theme. Featuring a pendant in platinum and 18k white gold, set with diamonds, unenhanced Umba sapphires and an unenhanced Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire weighing more than eight carats, it’s a necklace guaranteed to attract attention.
A Gucci high jewellery necklace from the Allegoria collection
For those after something pretty in pink, look no further than Gucci’s 2023 high jewellery collection, a sumptuous homage to the four seasons, named Allegoria. Big, bold and colourful, Allegoria isn’t shy about showcasing precious stones in all colours and high carat numbers.

The collection follows the order of the seasons beginning with spring, with one necklace capturing the characteristics of a season known for its budding flowers with an eye-popping 161-carat, cushion-cut tourmaline in a vibrant pink hue. The rest of the necklace features smaller tourmalines set in a design resembling a garland and arranged in a gradient colour pattern that goes from green to yellow, with shades of pink that grow darker closer to the star tourmaline.

Louis Vuitton Deep Time collection, Wave necklace

Another necklace in the Allegoria collection features more subtle tones to convey the autumn season but is no less stunning with its 78-carat yellow sapphire in an east-west setting.

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Tourmalines in shades of green, yellow and pink – reminiscent of autumn’s changing colours – are arranged in a gradient with the green tourmalines positioned closest to the yellow sapphire, while the two precious stones on either side of the clasp are in an amber and pink hue not often seen in high jewellery.
Bracelet from Gucci Allegoria high jewellery collection

Louis Vuitton sets out to tell the story of the creation of our planet with its Deep Time high jewellery collection. Comprising 170 pieces, Deep Time is the largest high jewellery collection ever from the fashion house. The collection is divided into two chapters, Geology and Life, which in turn follow 13 themes.

A collar necklace in the Wave theme from the Geology chapter showcases an impressive degree of skill by the maison’s jewellery artists. Designed to look like a curling wave, the piece is set with vertical rows of diamonds in different cuts. The wave meets at the centre point of the collar necklace, where there is a diamond cut in the shape of the LV monogram flower, and from which hangs an oval-cut, 40.80-carat Sri Lankan sapphire in a regal deep-blue hue.

Louis Vuitton Deep Time collection, Wave Bracelet

Drift is the last theme in the Geology chapter and its rings are larger than life, featuring yellow sapphires as a salute to the sun, and aquamarines in light-blue tones to mirror the ocean.

The rings also symbolise the balance between hot and cold, the warmth of the yellow sapphires playing against the silvery cool of the aquamarines. Just as how maximalist jewellery can sit alongside understated pieces in your own collection, for times when only a loud pop of colour will do.

  • Pop art is the inspiration behind Boucheron’s More is More collection with its geometric shapes, while Piaget’s Metaphoria marries regal designs with eye-catching jewels
  • Tiffany & Co. is inspired by the sea anemone, Gucci’s Allegoria references the four seasons, while Louis Vuitton’s Deep Time tells the story of the creation of our planet