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How to choose jewellery to pass on to the next generation: rarity, sentimental value and provenance are important for heirlooms, say Gübelin and more gem experts – and they can be wise investments too

Could a 26.70-carat cushion-cut diamond ring make for the perfect heirloom? Photo: Ronald Abram

New jewellery pieces start out as personal treasures, chosen for personal reasons. Only certain of them may they be passed down to the next generation, having become especially loved or meaningful.

But while a prospective heirloom doesn’t have to be a high jewellery item for it be cherished, it can be a savvy move to see a piece also as an asset to invest in for the next generation.

“If something is to be considered an heirloom, it should possess sentimental value, the actual value is less important. Alternatively, it could also be a piece of significant value, which is passed from one generation to the next with the intention of financial security,” explains Jonathan J. Abram, director at Ronald Abram.

A 12.41-carat cushion-cut Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring. Photo: Ronald Abram

Jewellery that is not mass-produced and worthwhile as a collectible item, will be the more financially sound option.

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“For a piece of high jewellery to be collectible it must be rare. That immediately rules out anything which is readily available or easy to reproduce. Today, the appetite for high jewellery is growing as we move into an era where quality and value are at the forefront of decision-making,” says Abram. “Obviously, a high jewellery heirloom can have both sentimental as well as asset value. As a collector, this is considered a savvy acquisition given the fact it also provides financial security.”

In addition, such jewellery needs to stand the test of time and be something that each wearer can see themselves wearing, despite differences in personal style.

Jewellery designer Sarah Zhuang (right). Photo: @sarah.zhuang/Instagram
“Avoid complicated or extravagant designs that might not fit with everyone’s tastes. A simple and classic design is always classy and timeless,” suggests Sarah Zhuang, founder and designer of Sarah Zhuang Jewellery.

Zhuang also points out that necklaces may work best because of their versatility. “I would think necklaces are most ideal as a collectible and heirloom item because they usually fit everyone so it’s easier to be passed on and worn by the next generation. In movies, men often propose with rings passed down from previous generations, but in reality, everyone has a different size, so the rings would most likely need to get resized, and not all can be adjusted depending on the design and size difference.”

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Another factor to consider – one that looks like it will become increasingly important – is the provenance of the jewels. Gübelin launched Provenance Proof, an independent subsidiary under its brand that uses cutting-edge technology to bring about greater transparency in the industry by tracing the journey of the gemstone.

Provenance proof for the gemstones in Gübelin’s Dancing Dunes necklace. Photo: Gübelin

“It is not a trend to avoid, but a trend to follow. Transparency and sustainability have become more and more important,” says Gübelin.

While there are these factors to consider when choosing jewellery for an heirloom, it remains a deeply special and personal experience as you pass on an item hopefully destined to be loved by others for many years to come.

“Jewellery combines financial and emotional value that you can wear and enjoy – and pass over to the next generation,” adds Gübelin. “Handing over jewellery from one generation to the next has a long history. You can see this perfectly in royal families.”

Over to you, as it were.

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  • High jewellery collectibles are valuable investments to be passed down and so there are several factors to consider when picking out such pieces, like their rarity
  • Something with both sentimental and financial value will always be the best option, but these days provenance matters too – and necklaces are better than rings