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Is men’s jewellery the hottest new luxury trend? Harry Styles, Cristiano Ronaldo and more Hollywood, C-pop and sports celebrities are donning gender-bending Gucci and Cartier jewels

Fu Xinbo in Messika. Photo: handout

“Diamonds are a girl’s best friend,” Marilyn Monroe once sang. But current trends suggest that they are not limited to women any more, and the jewellery world is waking up to a huge untapped opportunity.

Blame it on the performers on the red carpet, who have worn diamond-encrusted watches and sparkling jewellery during awards seasons. Trevor Noah, the South African host of this year’s Grammy Awards, wore a Tiffany & Co. diamond brooch with a custom Gucci tuxedo. At the SAG awards, Dan Levy of Schitt’s Creek pinned a vintage Cartier diamond and sapphire brooch to his white tuxedo, while Daniel Kaluuya, with some wit, received his SAG gong in PJs and a C de Cartier diamond necklace.

Chinese actor Fu Xinbao favours Messika’s Move diamond necklaces while De Beers’ brand ambassador, singer-songwriter Kun (Cai Xukun), released a portrait of himself wearing delicate Dewdrop diamond rings from Move. This image resonated with Kun’s fans – it received 150 million views on Weibo in just one day, according to Jing Daily.

Cartier’s Juste un Clou bracelet. Photo: Cartier

Rappers are some of the jewellery world’s biggest clients, draped in gold chains, rings, diamond-encrusted watches, medallions and pearl necklaces.

Last July, Boucheron put high jewellery on a male model and the result was powerful. In January creative director Claire Choisne introduced an art deco-inspired high jewellery line featuring a male and female model wearing the same pieces.

Cartier released a campaign featuring a range of their art deco and Panthère pins worn by epicene models in their lapels. David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council, says: “Campaigns like this are increasingly inclusive and play a central role in breaking global stereotypes. We see diamond jewellery brands presenting their designs on both men and women … This is something we fully embrace and encourage.”

The Juste un Clou bracelet adorned the wrists of some male celebrities during awards season and, along with the Cartier Love bracelet, forms the basis of wrist stacks. “I’ve seen male customers wearing an accumulation of bracelets,” says Valerie Messika, who launched Messika’s titanium and diamond Move collection for men in 2016.

De Beers’ Dewdrop band. Photo: De Beers
While Messika offers jewellery such as rings, bracelets and necklaces for men, there are also men who “dare to wear jewellery imagined for women”, she points out. And there is no specific age group embracing this new bravery. Later this year she will introduce a new bracelet imagined for both genders, designed so that it can be swapped between couples, like the boyfriend shirt.

The catwalk has had some influence, too, since the inception of Alessandro Michele’s gender-fluid collections for Gucci in 2015. His most recent collection features colourful high jewellery on male and female models.

Other menswear lines showcased necklaces: pearls and chunky chains at Dolce & Gabbana and fine silver chain pendants at Celine; while Virgil Abloh gave Louis Vuitton’s gold Squared LV logo pendants masculine appeal.

Giambattista Valli and Marc Jacobs are pearl aficionados. Jacobs told Town & Country magazine that, after wanting pearls for years, he finally bought some at Mikimoto. “I’m not making an active statement, but it’s kind of the way I always felt,” he said. “I mean, a twinset always belonged to a different gender, a strand of pearls belonged to a different gender, and you see with young kids today – it’s like, no, it doesn’t.”

LV Volt, a collection of unisex jewellery. Photo: Louis Vuitton

Pearls from Yoko London have appeared on the menswear catwalk, with more men among the brand’s customers.

“Our Classic collection has been popular, with Tahitian and baroque South Sea strands proving the bestselling items,” says CEO Michael Hakimian. “With celebrities such as Harry Styles wearing pearl jewellery now, this is a market that will continue to grow.”

Footballers such as Cristiano Ronaldo, Ronaldinho and David Beckham stand out from the crowd with their ear studs, diamond-covered watches and bracelets teamed with razor-sharp suiting.

Formula One champion Lewis Hamilton has also made diamonds look cool – he rocks streetwear style with earrings, necklaces, rings, layered bracelets and diamond watches with considerable impact.

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  • Trevor Noah sported a Tiffany & Co. diamond brooch at the Grammys while Schitt’s Creek star Dan Levy recently flashed a Cartier diamond and sapphire piece
  • Messika has plans for a gender-fluid bracelet, Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana released men’s jewellery pieces and Marc Jacobs says he’s a fan of pearls