Selecting the right fabric is the first hurdle, and one that often make or break the final result. Put away the summer-ready linens, and opt for fabrics that provide extra heft and body. Woollen flannels are the de facto choice when it comes to winter cloth, and one could do much worse than opting for a classic grey chalk stripe which is appropriate for both the office and weekend celebrations. Messrs Patrick Chu and Arnold Wong of the storied WW Chan & Sons are fans of the material but only recommend heavier variations. “Anything below 10/11oz we would not advise as it doesn’t have the same beautiful drape and trousers tend to bags in the knees”, Chu advises. “Heavy, substantial-feeling worsted wools also make for splendid winter suits that won’t raise eyebrows in an office setting”. On that endorsement, I chose a textured charcoal from the Oyster collection by Harrison’s.

For a more casual spin, take inspiration from Jan Tong from The Armoury who can often be spotted in the Central area in interesting tweeds, most of which upon closer inspection carry rainbow-coloured flecks which add a playful element to an otherwise sombre outfit. “Tweed is a fabric that is often misunderstood. Most people assume that the cloth is dense when in fact many are spongy and porous meaning they breathe very well”, Tong explains. A full tweed suit may lean too far into the countryside aesthetic for some so a stand-alone jacket may be the optimal way to get acquainted as they pair fantastically with denims and earth tones.

Details

Tempting as it is to incorporate every bell and whistle into a bespoke commission, exercising restraint is often the best way forward. When building a capsule wardrobe, versatility is key. “Pleats are fantastic for breaking up any visual emptiness below the midsection whilst adding some maneuverability, and turn-ups on trousers help to anchor the fabric to create a flattering legline”, notes Jerry Tong of Prologue, a man rarely spotted in flat front trousers.

Fit

All four experts agree that especially with a winter suit, “it is completely reasonable to cut a roomier silhouette.” This is for numerous reasons. The chilly breeze will likely call for knitwear to be layered underneath, therefore the fuller cut accommodates the extra space that may be required. “Weightier fabrics also tend to drape better”, Wong tells me whilst perusing through swatches of fabric, “and a slim cut would negate this benefit entirely.”

During the basted fitting, Chu mentioned that he had deliberately tailored the suit slightly wider to achieve visual balance. On the other hand, Jan Tong preferred to “have a dartless front” – and in doing so allowed for the checked pattern in his jacket to remain uninterrupted.

What to wear it with 

Office appropriate with a white shirt and patterned tie.

Throw on a raglan sleeve overcoat during cold spells.

Bespoke Suit by WW Chan / Shirt by Thomas Mason / Overcoat by Prologue / Tie by Vanda Fine Clothing / Loafers by Baudoin & Lange

Photography by Gavin Yeung

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