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Meghan Markle and Kate Middleton wore tiaras on their wedding days – should you? How Graff, Cartier and Boucheron are keeping the tradition of dazzling headpieces alive

Boucheron’s Au Gré du Vent brooch is proof that headpieces can still prove an elegant, contemporary addition to a bridal outfit. Photo: Boucheron
Dressing tresses with precious embellishments is a time-honoured tradition for a bride on her wedding day, whether these gems are worn with a veil or not. Diamond Alice bands and bejewelled combs or clips help complete the once in a lifetime look that is the quest of every bride.
High jewellery headpieces don’t have to overpower the rest of your look. Photo: Chaumet

A headpiece may also embody the sparkling treasure that makes that sentimental connection of “something borrowed” between a bride and her mother or grandmother. However, if a bride does not have a box of family heirlooms to call upon, marriage might prove the moment to invest in a treasure of her own – and then even pass it on to her own daughter in the years to come.

There are certainly a multitude of beautiful headpieces to be found, from pretty diamond hair combs that can fix a veil in place, to clips – or perhaps a gorgeous brooch – to secure an up-do with a veil.

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Going all out with Graff – this model is wearing no less than 22 pieces. Photo: Handout

Boucheron has done just that with its Au Gré du Vent brooch from its Contemplation high jewellery collection, which serves as inspiration for ways of wearing new or vintage brooches in the hair, or on a silk band attached to the veil.

Hairpins and brooches can have quite an impact, as Laurence Graff showed in 1970 when he created his famous US$1 million hair and jewel coiffure to launch his house globally. The extravagant design was inspired by the court hair fashions of 18th century Versailles, and proved so memorable that he updated it in 2013 for the 60th anniversary of his business, this time with US$500 million worth of rare diamonds that were entwined in the model’s hair.

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Tortoise shell and diamond hair combs circa 1905. Photo: Ronald Abram

That, of course, is an exceptional illustration; there are ways of making a crowning statement in a contemporary way, for example, with a coral-inspired diamond hair comb by Japanese diamond and pearl specialist Tasaki, which can be affixed to a veil or inserted into a hair bun. Alternatively, Ronald Abram has a group of exquisite, vintage French diamond-set tortoiseshell hair combs dating from 1905 in its collection that originally would have been designed for the era’s piled Belle Époque hair.

Coral diamond comb. Photo: Tasaki

The jeweller also has a pair of delicate Japanese-inspired art nouveau hair combs decorated with cranes and exotic flora.

A wedding is the most apt setting for a bride to indulge her inner princess with a sparkling tiara or more demure Alice bands, both of which have become hugely popular in recent years in Asia; many tiaras, mostly aristocratic heirlooms, that come up for auction are snapped up by Asian bidders. In fact, it is customary for a bride to wear a tiara without a veil in Japan. At its flagship boutiques in Tokyo and London, Tasaki even loans a small tiara if the bridal jewellery is bought from the jeweller.

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Perspectives de Chaumet, Diademe Mirage Saphirs. Photo: Chaumet

Tiaras are not for ingénues, though. According to an age-old tradition, tiaras can only be worn by brides or by married women. The custom dates back centuries to when the tiara was seen as emblematic of the loss of innocence to the crowning of love. In Paris, Chaumet has a salon in its Place Vendôme flagship dedicated to tiaras and aigrettes (feathered headpieces) that is well worth a visit. They have been making them ever since Napoleon commissioned the first designs for his wife Josephine. Today, the brand celebrates that heritage with its Crown Your Love engagement rings whose designs are inspired by the tiara. Their new high jewellery collection, Perspectives de Chaumet, features a large lacelike diamond tiara and a smaller, modern sapphire version that is all angles.

Graff’s multi-shape diamond tiara – with a total of 41.17 carats of diamonds. Photo: Graff

Graff has similarly designed tiaras for queens, wives of heads of state, and brides, and has completed a number of commissions for clients in Asia.

“For me, the process of designing a tiara begins with the stones themselves,” says Anne-Eva Geffroy, Graff’s design director. “However, nature, historical jewels, architecture and art also play a role in the creative process. A tiara is a bold statement jewel while still being distinctly feminine.”

She also points out the need for tiaras to be comfortable, too. Her designs can feature ornate scrolls and sunbursts of diamonds or creations, such as those in the Bow collection, that capture the effortless fluidity of this elegant motif decorated with diamonds.

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Résonances de Cartier, Hyperbole Necklace/Tiara. Photo: Cartier
Cartier, which has just opened its dazzling new flagship in K11 Musea, has a dedicated bridal corner where tiaras can be viewed, and also offers a special online video service for viewings. If ever there was an ambassador for Cartier’s tiaras, it would be Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, who wore the Cartier Halo tiara – loaned for the occasion by the queen – on her wedding day in 2011. The maison creates spectacular tiaras for the high jewellery collection with diamonds and emeralds, some of which have the advantage of being transformable so that they can be worn as a necklace after the big day and commemorate special memories.

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Weddings

A bejewelled headpiece, whether a tiara or a comb, is a timelessly classy finishing touch for your wedding day – so where did the tradition come from and why is it bang on trend in 2020?