There are many Japanese restaurants in Sham Shui Po, the newest being Kanazawa, which opened mid-March. The tiny space only seats 14 inside, with one table outside. Currently there is only a Chinese menu but the friendly front-of-house staff speak English. We also used Google Lens to translate the menu.

We were impressed by the five-star hotel quality of the ingredients minus the cost. We sampled both raw seafood and kushiyaki. Stand-outs were the salmon belly sushi and the creamy and sweet shrimp sashimi. From the extensive range of skewers the highlights were the tender and well seasoned beef shoulder and the perfectly cooked, juicy chicken.

178A Fuk Wa Street, Sham Shui Po, 9200 4921

Alive Eatery

Alive Eatery opened in February and is one of the growing number of modern, independent cafes in Sham Shui Po. Part of the focus at this cute cafe is its house-made fermented products (sourdough bread, kombucha, etc), which can be bought for takeaway. The other focus is making absolutely delicious dishes from scratch with top quality ingredients.

From the all-day breakfast options we selected the poached egg, guacamole, sumac and pomegranate served on thick-cut sourdough toast – a perfect harmony of textures and taste. There is also a post-11.30am menu including Spanish Ibérico pork taco with home-made tortilla, free-range drunken spring chicken and caramelised soft bread pudding.

131 Yu Chau Street, Sham Shui Po, 2638 2626

Slash

As an Australian, I was instantly transported home by the industrial chic interior, quality coffee and small menu at Slash. We opted for the 12-hour cold brew and the shakerato – single origin espresso and cucumber syrup shaken and served over ice. It had both a coffee kick and a refreshing finish.

While the avo ‘n’ egg sounded tempting, and the aroma of the cheese croissant with truffle scramble egg wafted tantalisingly in the air, we were delighted by our choice of the signature cinnamon apple bacon, featuring toasted sourdough, cream cheese, cooked apple, caramelised apple glaze, crispy bacon and roasted walnuts. The space transforms from coffee shop to wine bar in the evenings.

107 Ki Lung Street, Sham Shui Po, 9078 0912

Eldershop by Ginko House

If you find yourself in the bargain-filled Dragon Centre hungry and looking for a respite from the crowds, step into Eldershop, which focuses mostly on dumplings and handmade wontons.

We selected the wonton in spicy and sour broth, and pan-fried Shanghai pak choi and mushroom dumplings. The former had an intense spiciness despite our ordering the mild version, and the latter were umami bundles of vegetarian joy. We also enjoyed the shredded chicken, served warm and finished with the complex, house-made smoky chilli oil (also available for purchase). There is something about this place that is comforting; the food is simple but made with love. Adding to the homestyle vibe is the restaurant’s ethos of supporting employment for senior citizens.

Shop 211A, 2/F, Dragon Centre, 37K Yen Chow Street, Sham Shui Po, 3468 2151

Munakataya

The speciality here is donburi or rice bowls; in fact, that is all Munakataya serves, with four options. We tried the plum donburi with nine varieties of finely diced raw seafood (tuna two ways, surf clam, herring, scallop, salmon roe, squid, yellowtail and sea bream) plus cucumber, yuzu, spring onion and sesame seeds piled on seasoned rice. Diners are guided on how to eat the dish. First mix wasabi with soy sauce and pour over the mound of sashimi and eat with rice. Next make a hand roll, followed by ochazuke – place final spoonfuls of rice and seafood in a bowl, which is topped with a dashi-based broth. This three-in-one experience keeps it interesting, with aged pickled ginger refreshing the palate.

60 Castle Peak Road, Sham Shui Po, 2178 3322

Lau Sum Kee

The family-run Lau Sum Kee has been serving up handmade noodles kneaded with a bamboo pole since 1956. It is one of the few establishments still making noodles from scratch. From the egg-noodle soup selection we opted for shrimp wonton and were impressed. The wonton had flavour, the noodles had great bite, and the clear broth had an intense prawn taste with a sweet finish. We also tried one of its most famous dishes, noodles with shrimp roe with a side of shrimp dumplings. Again the noodles were superb, with the roe adding complexity. The dumplings were flavourful, too. This is not your average noodle place and is well worth the journey.

82 Fuk Wing Street, Sham Shui Po, 2386 3583

Oi Man Sang

One of the oldest of the few remaining dai pai dongs in Hong Kong, Oi Man Sang has been operating since 1956. It is also arguably one of the best. The two chefs manning the outdoor kitchen with roaring woks are masters of their craft, churning out fabulous dishes at a lightning pace. The menu is extensive with a focus on seafood, with signature dishes highlighted. We opted for two of these signatures, the roast pigeon – which was excellent – and the sautéed squid, shrimp and vegetables. What made the latter dish special was the large sun-dried shrimp with a wonderful chewy texture, a perfect counter to the crunch of the garlic chives, buttery cashews and brined vegetables.

1A-1C Shek Kip Mei Street, Sham Shui Po, 2393 9315

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