Style Edit: Gucci’s Ancora, Sabato De Sarno’s first spring/summer collection for the storied Italian fashion house, promises elevated classics, trademark accessories and a striking colour palette

Feb 5 , 2024

Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first spring/summer 2024 collection, Ancora, mines the luxury house’s archive – with a campaign telling a story of “real life and real women”, shot by David Sims. Photo: Handout

The first spring/summer collection by Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno marks a new chapter in the Italian fashion house’s storied history.

The Jackie Notte handbag, pictured in the new Ancora Rosso hue, references Gucci’s Jackie 1961. Photo: Handout

The Ancora collection – which the house translates to mean “also now, also then” – sets the tone with a fresh, sexy aesthetic combining signature elements from the Gucci archive with De Sarno’s notions of speaking to the modern woman. In the words of the designer, who joined the house in January 2023, it’s a joyful story of real life, passion, humanity and confidence.

Gucci monogrammed micro shorts in Ancora Rosso burgundy. Photo: Handout

The runway collection features a range of beautifully crafted, elevated wardrobe classics including tailored blazers, vests, dresses and denim. More casual pieces are injected with plenty of insouciance and include monogrammed rompers, embellished mini dresses, micro shorts, jewel-edged crop tops and lacy slip dresses.

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Gucci Jackie Notte handbag in Ancora Rosso burgundy. Photo: Handout

At the heart of the collection is a striking colour palette featuring the newly christened Ancora Rosso – a rich, burgundy hue that pays homage to Guccio Gucci’s tenure as a bellboy at the famed Savoy Hotel in London. It appears on chic pieces including an oversized leather jacket, embossed shorts and a midi skirt decorated with glittering silver strands.

Jessica Chastain, pictured in December in New York City, accessorises with a Gucci Jackie Notte handbag in black. Photo: INSTARimages

Gucci is known for its luxe accessories and the stand-out this season is the must-have Jackie Notte handbag, which is sure to be a new icon. Combining the sleek sophistication of the Jackie 1961 with a dose of attitude, this go-to evening bag features a new silhouette and subtle details including a snap hook.

NewJeans’ Hanni wore Gucci Ancora slingback pumps in Rosso burgundy to Milan Fashion Week in September. Photo: Getty Images for Gucci

The Signoria pumps – named after the central piazza of Florence – are also a winner with their classic slingback silhouette. De Sarno has updated this everyday staple in patent leather, adding an irreverent pointed toe and unique logo chain detailing that makes a subtle statement.

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A Gucci Ancora slingback pump under construction, with the logo chain detailing clearly visible. Photo: Handout

The spring/summer 2024 collection’s Gucci Ancora advertising campaign tunes into De Sarno’s new style, which celebrates personal expression and a timeless allure.

Gucci Ancora slingback pumps, featuring a pointed toe and logo chain detailing, in Rosso burgundy. Photo: Handout

The collection was captured by iconic British photographer David Sims – the first photographer the creative director ever worked with. Starring in the campaign are five unknown faces who represent a diverse spectrum of natural beauty, while exuding the freedom and confidence that are at the core of every Gucci woman.

Style Edit

The Jackie Notte handbag marries the Jackie 1961’s sleek sophistication with a dose of attitude, while the Signoria patent leather slingback pumps feature a pointed toe and unique logo chain detailing
There are chic pieces in Ancora Rosso – a rich, burgundy hue paying homage to Guccio Gucci’s time as a bellboy at London’s Savoy – with an ad campaign including 5 unknown faces, shot by David Sims