Explainer / What are keratin treatments – and why are they so popular? Leveraging a protein already native to our body, they smooth frizz and strengthen hair simultaneously, but can have health risks too
Among the wide range of options – from Brazilian blowouts to Japanese straightening – keratin treatments are stealing the spotlight. Celebrated for their ability to strengthen and smooth simultaneously, they leverage keratin, a protein native to our hair, providing both a beauty boost and a nourishing touch.
Here’s what you need to know about the range of treatments.
What is a keratin treatment?
Keratin treatments are game-changers in the hair care arena, known for turning frizzy, untamed hair into sleek, shiny locks. Unlike other hair smoothing treatments that may aggressively break and restructure hair bonds, these treatments nourish with keratin – a protein already in the hair. This not only fights frizz and increases the gloss, but also strengthens your strands, boosting their health and beauty.
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“One of the defining characteristics of keratin treatments is their flexibility,” says hairstylist and educator Christina Carlsson. “They can adjust to various hair types by gently coating each strand, enhancing smoothness, filling in the porosity, and smoothing the cuticle without permanently changing its structure.”
This results in a natural-looking smoothness that respects the hair’s integrity and allows for a gradual return to its natural texture over time.
They improve hair health at a molecular level
Keratin is a superhero protein vital for your hair, nails and skin. Its strong bonds provide hair with strength and elasticity, making it an essential component in hair’s structural integrity. “In healthy hair, keratin proteins are naturally aligned and tightly packed; however, daily styling and environmental stress can strip your hair of keratin, leading to damage and frizz,” Carlsson explains.
Keratin treatments leverage the restorative power of this protein to improve hair health and appearance at a molecular level. When the keratin solution is applied to the hair and sealed with heat, it fills the microscopic gaps in the hair shaft where natural keratin has been lost. The liquid keratin formula bonds to the hair’s outer layer, creating a protective coat that smoothens the cuticle and leaves a glossy finish. According to Carlsson, this process doesn’t alter the hair’s internal structure, “but instead covers the strand in a nourishing layer, which can reduce the effects of future damage and decrease porosity”.
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The staying power of a keratin treatment hinges on a few key factors, like hair type, your daily routine and environmental exposure, but generally speaking, you can enjoy the smooth, frizz-free benefits for two to five months. But the real game begins post-salon – maintenance is your secret weapon to extend those silky results.
They can cause eye irritation and breathing issues
While keratin treatments can make your hair smoother and easier to manage, it’s essential to be aware of potential health and safety risks. A significant concern is exposure to chemicals like formaldehyde, which can be present in some keratin products. When heated, these can emit harmful fumes, endangering both clients and stylists with risks like eye irritation, breathing problems and skin reactions.
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To minimise these risks, it’s important to choose reputable, formaldehyde-free keratin treatments that have been verified by trusted health authorities, adding an extra layer of protection and peace of mind.
- Unlike options that may aggressively break and restructure hair bonds, treatments with keratin – a protein already in the hair – nourish, strengthen and smooth
- But the treatment is not without its risks: formaldehyde in some products can emit harmful fumes, with risks like eye irritation, breathing problems and skin reactions