Upper Station Street is the heart of Poho (the area around Po Hing Fong), and Crafty Cow is the latest edition to the culinary Mexican wave rippling up the hillside. A craft beer gastropub with an East London shabby-chic vibe, this bar has high stalls, low lights and an open kitchen.

if you aren't a beer fan, head to SoHo, Noho or Koho (that last "oho", referring to Kennedy Town, is surely only a matter of time) because Crafty Cow is a treasure trove of stouts, ales and ciders. I was lured in by the description of the Hopwired IPA (HK98): "sauvignon blanc and tropical fruit" (it resembles more a fruity Kronenburg Light). The Matso's Ginger Beer, 3.5 per cent (HK$68) is a sophisticated, spicy alcoholic version of this drink. The Yoho Wednesday Pussycat (HK$68) with notes of banana, citrus and spice, has a great fruity taste. Junmai Sake is also served by the ceramic pot (HK$228).

The snacks menu is an eye-opener: the Rocky Mountain Oysters (HK$148) are deep-fried breadcrumbed bulls' testes, the only ones served in Hong Kong, apparently. Likewise the CC Goosewings (HK88). Numbing Bone Marrow, served Sichuan style (HK$98), was also tasty.

a suave watering hole with fine beer and weirdest snack selections in all the "ohos".