Simon Kealy brings an eccentric charm to The French Window
With his one-name dishes, playful presentations and quirky cooking, Welsh chef Kealy is offering fine-dining without the pretension or stuffiness
The French Window in IFC Mall is having identity issues, constantly changing its concepts. Several years ago it was uber fine dining, then it went casual bistro, and now with new chef Simon Kealy at the helm, it’s back to fine dining but without the stuffiness.
Part of the restaurant is sectioned off for happy hour patrons who are welcome to stay on for dinner, while prime tables are by the windows for diners to enjoy the view overlooking Victoria Harbour.
A few amuse-bouches to start and it was evident early on that Kealy likes to be playful on the plate when we were served a pink macaron – wasn’t it supposed to be sweet? But in fact it was beetroot flavoured with some foie gras. Savoury decadence.
This was followed by pressed pork terrine, thoughtfully accompanied with refreshing Sauternes jelly, pickled carrots to balance the meatiness of the dish, and some curious crunchy bits that were called pork popcorn, and mustard dressing.
It needed few more greens on the plate to balance to the gamy duck.
At this point we were quite full, but we still had a pre-dessert and dessert to go. On the menu the former says “gin and tonic” which turned out to be a sorbet of the cocktail that was very refreshing and light.
It’s a good start for Kealy – who seems in his element playing around with flavours, textures and appearances. We’re wondering what he’s cooking up for the next menu ...
The French Window
3101, Podium Level 3, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, tel: 2393 3812
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