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The houndstooth pattern is a timeless, iconic print and has fans in major fashion houses and stars like Anne Hathaway (right) and Dua Lipa.

Style icons Anne Hathaway, Kate Middleton, Dua Lipa are fans of houndstooth – how to wear it without looking too retro

  • Welcome to the year of Anne Hathaway – the actress has been serving some exceptional looks of late. Among them have been several houndstooth outfits
  • Hathaway is not the only one who has been spotted in the bold, timeless print. We get some tips on how to have fun with houndstooth and make it contemporary
Fashion

Anne Hathaway is on an unparalleled style streak of late. Indeed, this may be her year, despite all the naysayers.

She showed movie star glamour with her retro-tinged looks at the Cannes Film Festival, and looked incredible in pineapple yellow Valentino yellow shirt and shorts worn with Bulgari jewellery at an event for the Roman jewellery house in June.

In September, the WeCrashed star sat next to American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour at the Michael Kors show in New York, channelling her Devil Wears Prada character Andie Sachs – right down to the fringe.

The fashion streak has continued this month in New York, with Hathaway appearing in several of her signature high-octane looks for press appointments.

These included a hot pink houndstooth Versace skirt suit and an ’80s-inspired – shoulder pads and a bold print – oversized blazer by Christopher John Rogers.

Incidentally, Hathaway also wears an impeccable houndstooth blazer as the Grand High Witch in Roald Dahl’s The Witches on HBO Max.

Hathaway in a still from The Witches on HBO Max.
The houndstooth print – bold, glamorous, somewhat retro yet entirely timeless – is perfect for Hathaway’s new aesthetic. She joins a coterie of fans of the print, from singer Dua Lipa to Britain’s late Queen Elizabeth, actress Anya Taylor-Joy, Kate Middleton and the infamous Wallis Simpson.

According to Simpson’s biographer, Anne Sebba, a houndstooth coat may well have helped change world history.

After Simpson’s then-husband, Ernest Simpson, admired the future British king Edward VIII’s houndstooth tweed overcoat, he was sent an identical coat by the royal tailor. Given Simpson was having an affair with Edward, Sebba wrote: “This later gave rise to the jibe that Ernest Simpson was the man who sold his wife for a bolt of cloth.”

Kate Middleton wears houndstooth on a visit to Harvard University in December, 2022. Photo: WireImage
Actress Anya Taylor-Joy wearing a vintage Alaïa houndstooth suit. Photo: @checkthetag/Instagram

It was only a matter of time before houndstooth was restored to prominence.

In recent seasons, it has been spotted everywhere from Versace to Ami Paris and Anine Bing – the pattern works as well for a boxy blazer as it does a fitted midi-dress.

At the Chanel spring/summer 2023 show, houndstooth was infused with lightness and prettiness in pink check vests and billowing trousers, a modern twist on Coco Chanel’s long-time love for the pattern.
A look from Chanel’s spring/summer 2023 collection.

Chanel was not the only couturier to favour the print, a woven tessellation of shapes in a repeated pattern that was first worn by shepherds in the Scottish lowlands in the 1800s.

Christian Dior was one of the first designers to take the print into high fashion. Dior created his first houndstooth piece in 1938, a dress called English Café, which honoured his childhood spent in Normandy.

He later used it in collections including his game-changing 1947 New Look, and on the packaging for his first bottle of Miss Dior fragrance.

A model wears a Christian Dior houndstooth check suit in 1962. Photo: Getty Images
A look from Alexander McQueen’s autumn/winter 2009 collection.

Oscar de la Renta’s summer 1992 collection was an ode to the pattern and to sassy, elegant women with busy lives, while Alexander McQueen’s autumn/winter 2009 collection, titled Horn of Plenty, famously parodied fashion and sent out look after look in houndstooth check.

Évelyne Chetrite, founder and creative director of French brand Sandro, often uses houndstooth in her chic and playful designs.

“Houndstooth, or pied de poule in French, is one of the most recognisable iconic prints,” she says. “I love the symbolism of this pattern, and its unique vintage [and] retro look.

“At Sandro, we love to play with codes, aesthetic codes. But when we do, there’s always a twist. For us, houndstooth is a great pattern to have fun with.”

A Sandro houndstooth jacket.

To avoid feeling too retro when you wear it, Chetrite says it is important to create some balance with your outfit.

“You have to associate it with opposite pieces,” she says. “For example, you can pair [a] tweed houndstooth jacket with a vintage denim and a ’70s T-shirt. Because it’s a very ‘bourgeois’ pattern, it’s great to give it a twist to make it modern and contemporary.”

Because of its history and how it has been worn, Chetrite believes houndstooth is the ideal pattern to experiment with.

“It has something almost of an optical illusion. It is classic, timeless and glamorous, and at the same time it’s the perfect pattern to twist,” she says.

Honestly, just ask Anne Hathaway.

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