Climate change: food science breakthroughs can’t come fast enough for a warming world
- Many staple crops are under stress as climate change brings hotter, less stable weather, forcing food scientists to experiment with hardier varieties
- Breakthroughs such as heat-resistant apples and salt-resistant rice hold great promise, but such progress takes a long time
Tutti’s story began more than 20 years ago, when a group of growers from Catalonia, Spain’s main apple-growing region, travelled to consult food scientists at New Zealand’s Plant and Food Research facility in Hawke’s Bay, one of the world’s best apple-growing regions.
As Lisa Goddard, at Columbia University’s International Research Institute for Climate and Society, said of foods drifting north as their ideal climate shifts: “Napa Valley pretty much ends up in Canada not too long from now.”
The good news for the Catalan apple-growers is that Tutti – and a pipeline of other apple and pear varieties due to be released over the next decade – might provide an answer to their prayers. The bad news is that it has taken over 21 years to get Tutti to market.
Tutti apples provide a marvellous example of the time scientists need to respond to the climate challenge. The apple variety was selectively chosen from among 253,510 apple seeds explored by food scientists at the Plant and Food Research facility in Hawke’s Bay.
The Tutti seeds were sent to Catalonia’s government research institute, where 90,000 trees have been raised in test orchards in the past two decades. From those 90,000 trees, just 357 varieties made it to the second round of trials, 18 to the third round and just 13 to the final round. Every Tutti apple today comes from a clone of a single tree selected in 2007.
Richard Volz was 42 when, as the head of apple and pear variety breeding at Food and Plant Research, he launched the search for Tutti and other heat- and drought-tolerant apples in Hawke’s Bay. He is now 64 and regards himself as fortunate to have succeeded before hitting retirement. He looks forward to a day when a Tutti can be brought to market in 13 years compared to the present 20, but even this might not be soon enough for many parts of the farming sector.
In Bangladesh, where more than 1 million hectares of rice-growing land is threatened by salination as sea levels rise, food scientists have developed more than 100 salinity-tolerant varieties, but can they stay ahead of a rising Indian Ocean?
Smart as our scientists have been in mitigating the food security challenge created by climate change and global warming, the overall message that we face significant changes in what we eat, where and when seems clear. Some foods will simply be more expensive. Others will be harder to get.
All of us will need to relearn the art of eating with the seasons. In the meantime, our food scientists are going to be extremely busy people.
David Dodwell is CEO of the trade policy and international relations consultancy Strategic Access, focused on developments and challenges facing the Asia-Pacific over the past four decades