Some promotions can put customers off, says Kazu executive chef Thomas Lam Kin-ming. ''Food-on-sale' doesn't always sound appetising. People associate sales with getting rid of inventory, and may question whether the food is fresh or if the quality is good.'

But managers at Kazu, the Press Room and other places such as Zuma in Central, believe the offer of all-you-can-drink meals is a good way to boost business in hard times.

'Customer numbers have grown 300 per cent at Zuma on Sundays since the free-flow promotion began,' says the restaurant's manager, Christian Talpo.

The modern Japanese restaurant launched its Sunday brunch in July and in December began offering unlimited bellinis, champagne and sake.

The Press Room's business has doubled on Monday nights since November, when it started once-a-week free-flow dinners that allow customers to drink all they want of selected merlot and chardonnay.

At Kazu, business is up at least 50 per cent since it started an 'izakaya nights' promotion in December. Available from Sunday until Wednesday, it offers dinner guests free-flowing beer and sake. 'It has flip-flopped our week completely,' says Lam. 'Now many of our Monday nights are busier than Saturday nights.'

The free-flow promotions are not necessarily cheap, Talpo says. Zuma's buffet costs HK$550 per head, compared to HK$428 without alcohol. 'Hongkongers are looking for deals with the best value, not necessarily the lowest price,' he says. 'At just HK$122 extra, which is less than the price of one glass of champagne [HK$180], they can get unlimited refills. They would rather pay a little more to get a whole lot more in return.'

Quality is also important, Talpo says. 'These days, there are no half measures. We don't just give out any no-name sparkling wine. We bring out the Perrier-Jouet.'

Other restaurants also serve top tipples. At the Press Room, whose customers Bocquet-Appel describes as 'serious and sophisticated drinkers', the 2006 vintage of Domaine Magellan chardonnay and merlot was chosen for Monday nights. Kazu tries to retain izakaya authenticity with Sapporo draft beer.

Restaurateurs say their offers are popular. At Zuma, more than 90 per cent of Sunday brunch diners take the drinks option and at Kazu all the customers order at least HK$200 worth of food to take advantage of the free-flowing beer and sake, the restaurants say.

Bocquet-Appel says he thought the Press Room's offer of Monday night complimentary drinks with no spending minimum 'was a crazy idea at first'.

In Europe, a free-flow wine promotion 'would be unheard of', he says. 'The diners would certainly drink the restaurant down. But thankfully, here in Hong Kong, the wine consumption patterns are more reserved.' The Press Room averages 60 covers and 24 bottles of wine on free-flow Mondays, working out to just two to three glasses per customer.

Lam has seen his share of big drinkers at Kazu. 'While most of the customers order two to three drinks, once in a while, we get big groups of people coming in who can down a dozen beers each,' he says. 'We've yet to pull the plug on anyone, but izakaya nights must be carefully monitored week by week.'

At Zuma, where Sunday brunch patrons empty more than 50 bottles of champagne alone in just a few hours, Talpo recalls how the management 'at first thought the alcohol consumption would be low, since 80 per cent of the crowd consists of families'. He says: 'What a mistake that was. Nothing is stopping anyone from enjoying a few more glasses than usual.'

Despite this, the three restaurateurs say their alcohol promotions are profitable or at least break even. 'We've come to peace with the fact that it is not the biggest money generator,' says Talpo. 'But we used to do 50 covers on Sundays without the promotion, and now we do 150 covers. The grand total may be the same at the end of the day, but we'd rather spend our time at a busy restaurant than an empty one.'

Lam agrees. 'It is important for restaurants to look busy. Hong Kong is funny like that. You see restaurants with lines down the block right next to places serving similar menus without a single customer. There's a mob mentality that if a place is full, it must be good.'

Kazu and Zuma say their free-flow meals have attracted a new crowd. 'Over 80 per cent of our customers are newcomers, who have seen our banners and were attracted to the idea,' says Lam.

More than half of Zuma's Sunday brunch customers are recent converts.

The Press Room is using its promotion as a chance to strengthen its base of regulars, who make up more than 60 per cent of diners on Monday nights.

'We originally started the promotion as a way to give back to people [who] had supported us through the two years since our opening. Now more than ever, we will need their help.'

The flow of alcohol takes the pressure off staff and customers, says Talpo. 'A dining room during free-flow meals is more relaxed and fun,' he says. 'There's not as much pressure to sell the customers or get the most money. And customers aren't as worried about their budget. It's a win-win situation in a way, and much needed during these grim times.'

Kazu and Zuma will run their free-flow drink promotions indefinitely, and although the Press Room is due to end its promotion at the end of this month, its management says it might resume it later. 'Originally it was just meant for November, but we brought it back after Christmas since it was such a success,' says Bocquet-Appel.

Lam says restaurants will need to think up 'newer and better ideas' to keep the customers entertained. 'But so far everybody likes a free drink. And given these tough times, we could surely all use one.'